Why base yourself in Gozo
Gozo is Malta's quieter, greener, more rural second island — a 25-minute ferry ride from the main island that feels like stepping back 30 years to a slower Mediterranean. The hilltop capital, Victoria (locally called Rabat), is anchored by the dramatic fortified Citadel; the panoramic ramparts give 360-degree views over the entire island's patchwork of stone-walled fields and sandstone villages, and the brilliant little Citadel Visitor Centre uses a 270-degree wraparound screen to tell Gozo's deep history. The main draw, though, is the prehistoric Ġgantija Temples in Xaghħra — a pair of megalithic structures dating to 3600–3200 BC, predating Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids by over 1,000 years, and one of the oldest free-standing stone structures in the world (UNESCO-listed). On the coast, the deep red sand of Ramla Bay (the legendary cave of Calypso, where Odysseus was supposedly held captive for seven years, sits above it), and the dramatic Wied il-Mielah natural arch in the cliffs of the northwest replace the much-missed Azure Window (which collapsed in March 2017). Don't miss the small picturesque port of Mgarr ix-Xini, the historic Ta' Pinu basilica (a major Maltese pilgrimage site), and a long lazy lunch at one of the harbour-front restaurants in Marsalforn.