First impressions of Schwangau
Schwangau is the gateway village to Neuschwanstein — 'Mad' King Ludwig II of Bavaria's hilltop fantasy castle, started in 1869 as a Wagnerian dream of medieval kingship and never finished before the king's mysterious death in Lake Starnberg in 1886. Around 1.5 million visitors a year now make the climb up the wooded hill to see what is genuinely one of the most beautiful, ridiculous buildings in Europe; the Throne Hall (which never received a throne) and the Singers' Hall painted with scenes from Wagner's Lohengrin are unmissable, and the famous picture-postcard view comes from the dizzying Marienbrücke iron footbridge spanning a gorge behind the castle (currently closed for renovation, expected to reopen). Down in the village, the older Hohenschwangau Castle — the yellow-painted Gothic Revival palace where Ludwig grew up — is the perfect companion visit and arguably more atmospheric. The whole area sits in the Allgäu Alps, with lakes (Alpsee and Schwansee) and walking trails reaching up to the Tegelberg cable car. Tickets MUST be booked online in advance — same-day walk-up purchases at the box office have been impossible for years.